Build Guides · Oct 15, 2026

The Best Filament for a 3D Printed RC Boat Hull

Every TMRC hull is printed in PETG, but ABS is the better pick if your printer can handle it. PETG is easy to print big, handles water and takes a hit. ABS is stiffer and holds up better to heat, but it warps on big parts unless your printer is enclosed and holds its temperature.

What we use, part by part

Part Filament Why
Hull, deck, console, tower PETG What we print every hull in. ABS is recommended if your printer can do it
Outboard cowling and midsection PETG, ASA or ABS ASA and ABS hold up better to motor heat and sun
Brackets, transom adapters, motor mounts ABS or ABS-CF (ASA or PETG also work) Stiffness and heat resistance where the load is
Our printed outboards ABS glass fiber Rigid and heat resistant for running hard

Why not PLA?

PLA is fine for a test fit or a shelf model. We don't use it for a boat that goes in the water. It gets soft in the heat and doesn't last in water the way PETG does.

PETG

This is the one to start with. We print with SUNLU PETG and buy it on 5 kg spools, because a big hull can run for days and fewer spool changes means more consistent sections. Plan on a lot of filament: our Defender 26 takes about 10 kg.

ABS, ASA and carbon-fiber blends

Use these for parts near the motor, parts that carry load, and anything that sits in the sun. ABS warps on big flat parts, so print a whole hull in ABS only if your printer is enclosed and can hold temperature. Carbon-fiber and glass-fiber blends wear out a brass nozzle, so run a hardened nozzle if you print them.

The settings we start from

  • Walls: 4 (5 to 6 on brackets and outboard parts)
  • Infill: 5%, 3D honeycomb. Go higher around the transom and motor mounts.
  • Layer height: 0.2 to 0.28 mm
  • Supports: only where needed
  • Heat-set inserts for hardware wherever you can

Every TMRC pack lists the settings for that boat on its product page. Start there.

Ready to print? Shop the boats · Outboard STL files · The gear we use